How We Test
The Less Is Locs protocol: fixed test windows per product category, five scores, one tester, and The Verdict. Every rule we hold ourselves to, in public.
Updated:
What a scorecard looks like
Every product on this site is tested the same way for its category, on the same head, and scored on the same five things. This page is the whole method. If a review ever breaks one of these rules, it says so in the review.
Who tests
One tester: Abou. 4C hair, locs installed with an interlocking “instant locs” method in 2024, washed at least weekly, professionally retwisted every 2–2.5 months. Products are bought at retail unless a review says otherwise. Brands do not see reviews before publication and cannot pay for placement or a score.
The five scores
Every product gets a score from 0 to 10 on each of these. Weights differ by category (below) because a bonnet doesn’t need a moisture score and a spray doesn’t need hold.
| Score | What it measures | How it’s checked |
|---|---|---|
| Clean | Residue and buildup: right away, after drying, and after repeated use | White-cloth wipe test along a loc; flake check on a dark shirt; how the next wash feels |
| Moisture | How the locs feel immediately, later the same day, and the next morning | Same section of hair every time, rated 1–5 at each checkpoint, plus close-up photos |
| Hold | Styling products only: neatness on day 0, 7 and 14; unravelling at the roots | Photos at each checkpoint |
| Scalp | Itch, flaking, tightness, comfort over the whole test window | A daily one-line note |
| Value | Price per ounce, how much you actually use per application, where you can buy it | Receipt, measured pumps or sprays, and a straight comparison with the cheaper option |
The Verdict
The weighted average becomes The Verdict, with one of four labels:
- Verdict Pick (8.5 and up): I’d buy it again and recommend it without a caveat.
- Solid (7 to 8.4): good; a small drawback you should know about.
- Situational (5.5 to 6.9): good for a specific hair or routine, wrong for others. The review says which.
- Skip (below 5.5): didn’t earn its place on my shelf.
Every review also answers four blunt questions: Would I buy it again? Who is it for? Who should skip it? What’s the cheaper equivalent?
Test windows by category
| Category | Window | Checkpoints |
|---|---|---|
| Sprays, mists, leave-ins | 7 days of daily use on a marked section | Immediately, same evening, next morning, day 7 wipe test |
| Shampoos and clarifiers | Two full wash cycles (about 2 to 3 weeks) | Scalp clean? Rinse-out ease, residue after drying, 24-hour feel |
| Gels and retwist products | One retwist, 14-day window | Flake/residue check day 1 and day 7, hold at day 7 and 14, wash-out at the next wash |
| Oils and scalp products | 14 days | Greasiness, transfer to bonnet or pillowcase, scalp comfort |
| Bonnets, towels, dryers, tools | 30 days of normal use | Fit on long, heavy locs; lint; durability; drying time |
When a comparison needs it, I mark separate sections of my locs with coloured clips and run products side by side on the same head, same week, same wash.
What a test can and can’t tell you
This is one head of 4C hair with one loc type in a dry climate. A product that leaves my locs dry might behave differently on thinner locs in Atlanta humidity. So every review states what it was tested on, and I try to explain why something might have happened as a hypothesis, not a finding. When my result contradicts common advice, and it sometimes does, I say so and keep testing rather than pretend the advice must be right.
Honesty rules
- Nothing is described as tested unless it went through the window above. Research is labelled research.
- No fabricated results, photos or experiences, ever. Photos are of my actual hair and the actual product.
- Scores can change. If a product performs differently on a re-test, the review is updated and the change is dated.
- Affiliate links are disclosed on every page that has them. They never influence a score.
- AI helps me draft and organise. Every test, observation and opinion is mine. See the disclosure page.
- “Last tested” and “Updated” dates appear on every review so you know how old the result is.
If you think a test was done wrong, tell me. I’d rather fix it than defend it.